I'll be attempting to tackle my first tie rod job tonight. 

"Noah - Now with more boost." (antriebverliebt) 10/11/2016 at 16:28 • Filed to: None

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On the surface, this seems like it could be a stupid easy job that will take an hour. The wheel comes off, a cotter pin comes out of a castle nut, the nut comes off, a tie rod puller pops that end off of the steering knuckle, the old tie rod is screwed off, and a new one is screwed/bolted back on.

Of course, what will actually happen is the repair won’t go smoothly, because they never do. Maybe I’ll break something or discover that something more serious has been broken. Maybe something will be frozen and penetrating oil/heat won’t do it. Who knows. Wish me luck Oppo. Maybe there will be a victory post later tonight...

Future next gen S2000 owner > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/11/2016 at 16:32

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Don’t forget to count threads!

Jcarr > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/11/2016 at 16:39

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I did both sides of our Envoy this spring and felt about the same way. Seems really simple and straightforward. Took me 4 hours because the lock nuts wouldn’t come loose for the life of me. Once I got those loose, though, it was a breeze. It didn’t help matters that I didn’t have the right size open-ended wrenches so I was forced to use an adjustable wrench and a set of Channel-Loks.

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/11/2016 at 16:40

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It’s less of a problem with tie rods, but can be an issue with vertical link balljoints. If it won’t release, take your biggest BFH (big fucking hammer) and rest it on the back of the vertical link where the balljoint is clamped. Then, take your second biggest BFH and hammer the opposite side really hard until it pops out :)

DynamicWeight > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/11/2016 at 16:42

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Things I learned from doing my tie rods recently:

The replacement tie rod may have a built in plastic lock nut instead of a crenelated nut and cotter pin (like in your picture). This is, apparently, normal.

Tie rod pullers suck and do not work. Use a hammer. Remember to hold a piece of wood between the hammer and the hammee.

Use a five pound hammer. Swinging a plumbers hammer harder is not the answer, but a five pound hammer will make short work. (As an engineer, I didn’t believe this. I was proven wrong.)

Marking off threads is less important if you are getting an alignment anyway.

It is a good time to replace the boots and re-grease the inner tie rods while you have the stuff off. Boots are cheap.

Dave the car guy , still here > Future next gen S2000 owner 10/11/2016 at 16:46

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MOST IMPORTANT!

Dave the car guy , still here > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 10/11/2016 at 16:48

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Yep, I usually hammer the side of whatever the stud goes through instead of opposite end. It works better that way if its frozen even the slightest. I have a BFH and a large dead blow hammer. One way or another it comes free after some serious beating on it.

Shift24 > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/11/2016 at 16:52

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Should be simple but in any case good luck. Couple tips use a tie rod fork/separator and a BFH (big f hammer). Sound stupid but if it is still stuck in the knuckle, right next to where the tie rod bolts up on the knuckle. And hit it hard after putting PB blaster or w/e on it. Also be careful of mushrooming the head of it if you hit it on the top of the treads, just use the nut and put it so its flush with the top of the treads. Might want to get it aligned after, counting the threads helps and gets it close but the joint its self might be off.

Justino6969 > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/11/2016 at 16:54

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Heat is your friend. If it’s really stuck, hammer the tie rod separator in there as much as you can, sit with a torch on the knuckle until you hear it pop. Works every time.

loki03xlh > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/11/2016 at 17:15

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Good luck. I have to replace both inner and outer tie rods on the Firechicken sometime soon. Not looking forward to it.

Noah - Now with more boost. > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 10/11/2016 at 19:17

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Lol yep I brought my bfh! Good tip thx

Noah - Now with more boost. > Future next gen S2000 owner 10/11/2016 at 19:19

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Si senior! What they recommend doing is loosening the pinch nut, then moving it back to it’s original position without tightening it. But I will be counting to double check

Noah - Now with more boost. > DynamicWeight 10/11/2016 at 19:21

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Duly noted on the puller, now I won’t be surprised if/when it doesn’t work.

Noah - Now with more boost. > Shift24 10/11/2016 at 19:22

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Lol you’re the second to mention the BFH! Hopefully it won’t have to come out but I won’t be surprised

Noah - Now with more boost. > Jcarr 10/11/2016 at 19:23

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Channel locks?!?!?! The horror... you’re a brave man. And a little nuts lol

Noah - Now with more boost. > Justino6969 10/11/2016 at 19:24

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Absolutely. I don’t have a torch on me but the local Home Depot is open late - I’ll stop and give up rather than break shit due to no heat

Jcarr > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/11/2016 at 19:39

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There were a lot of swears. Miraculously, I did it without rounding any of the nuts.

sn4cktimes > Jcarr 10/11/2016 at 21:20

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Or your fingers. Channel locks are my least favourite tool.

Noah - Now with more boost. > Jcarr 10/11/2016 at 22:47

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I believe it. Makes me feel like a noob for not being able to finish tonight. Ugh I’m so stressed over this

Jcarr > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/11/2016 at 23:09

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Eh, don’t sweat it. I basically willed it to happen because I had an appointment for an alignment first thing the next morning.

Shift24 > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/12/2016 at 00:49

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Should always have one lol but agreed hopefully you wont need it.

Future next gen S2000 owner > Noah - Now with more boost. 10/12/2016 at 10:14

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It will get you in the ball park, then a using a tape to double check should be enough to get you to the alignment shop.